On my recent sojourn in Burgundy to taste the 2015 vintage, I was taken for lunch by Caroline Lestimé and her family to Pierre & Jean Restaurant in Chagny. It was such a pleasant lunch, a happy meeting of good food, company and ambience, I felt like sharing this little ‘find’ for readers who may very well be heading to Burgundy this summer.

Caroline and I had worked up an appetite that morning trotting round the vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet for a spot of cinematography. Caroline took to the camera like a pro, effortlessly describing terroir and the style of wine it produces. By the time we wrapped up, I had films on La Chaumée, Les Chenevottes, La Boudriotte, Petit Clos and En Caillerets, moreover the rain held off and there was even a glimmer of sunshine. You will find these films and many more on www.theburgundybriefing.com when I have time to edit them.

Back to the bistro which is an offshoot of Lameloise the local three star Michelin restaurant. To quote the bumf, it was “born of a desire to enable more people to appreciate the values of carefully prepared cuisine, to put it within easy reach.” So in other words a taste of Lameloise without la doloroso. And yes, it delivers. The cuisine is light and fresh and to use my ten year old son’s favourite culinary expression ‘very flavoursome.’

We started with an amuse bouche of fresh melon puree and mini cheese gougères, a sweet and savoury combo to whet the appetite. My first course of delicately flavoured, seaweed marinated salmon all but swam from my plate. The Lestimé palate favoured snails, which came finely chopped on top of a little tart flavoured with anise. Good choice. Caroline recalls as a child helping her grandmother search for snails under rocks, and where ever else they live, to cook for supper. As a busy vigneron, this natural approach is a thing of the past..

There were some fab looking mains – roasted duck with mushrooms, mash and asparagus or lamb shank accompanied by polenta with dried fruit and tomatoes and a tarragon jus… wolfed down by the Caroline’s sons. I chose a ‘lighter option’ of roasted dorade, which was beautifully cooked and came with a medley of sauces, but the Lestimé’s more hearty choices carried my menu envy in their wake.

The French never do lunch by halves so cheese was up next. Three scrumptious, local lactic offerings with a small wedge of the most delicious bread imaginable, were you to dwell on such things.

And… to stretch the girth still further, dessert. It was an open and shut choice for the Lestimés – millefeuille. Ordered en famille, it disappeared in a silent trice. My almond cake-biscuit with rhubarb jam and ice cream barely lasted longer.

And with that we were replete and the restaurant had emptied.

I was driving but it seemed impolite not to have a sip or two of a soft and fragrant Rully… I didn’t catch the producer and seemed a bit rude to take the bottle for a closer look. There was more discussion about the water, a local naturally sparking water called Chateldon, than the wine. The waiter was very excited. The well had been contaminated by floods and closed down. We had ordered the last bottle – stocks were running out all over. What was to be done? It is a favourite with smart restaurants including Lameloise… quelle catastrophe!

Menu Carte
First course, main and dessert E31
with cheese E34