Would you live on an active volcano? Maybe if you could make wines like Paolo Caciorgna.

If you are vinously curious, you’ll love these little reds from the north slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. They are fragrant, delicate and mineral. Red masquerading as white.

Paolo Caciorgna has an impressive reputation as a consultant winemaker. He was lured south from his native Marche by a Sicilian friend who spotted the potential of Etna’s grape vines traditionally cultivated by the locals together with citrus fruits and vegetables in the volcanic soils. “The vineyards had been looked after like a garden,” describes Pietro.

The soil is rich in volcanic ash. It’s rather special soil and the altitude is unusual too. At 750 metres, these may be the highest vineyards in the world. Grape varieties we know and love would struggle here, but Nerello Mascalese is right at home on the lava terraces.

“This is one of those perfect marriages, like Pinot Noir and Burgundy or Nebbiolo and Piedmont,” says Paolo. It’s true that Nerello is not a high flier in the varietal hierarchy and would probably suck elsewhere, but has found its niche…over time. The vineyards are 70 to 100 years old – pre-phylloxera still on their own roots and unaffected by the pesky beast.

In the nineteenth century there was a lot of wine made here, but post war many vines were grubbed up and replanted with orange trees. It’s not easy to work these terraces. Thank goodness this little gem was saved. Little is the word. Paolo named his vineyard N’Anticchia, which means ‘a little.’ He has just two acres from which he makes three wines…selecting the grapes by age and quality.”

is pretty with a tangy salty finish.. fresh cherry fruit with light tannins. £15.75

has strawberry fruit and fennel on the nose. It’s supple with notes of strawberry and samphire; delicate but quite intense and with a fresh and mineral finish. £21

has a rose petal aroma. This is a little richer with more tension to the fine tannin and finesse to the texture. Marine notes combine with violets and herbs. It has a lively, long, saline and mineral finish. £39.50

These wines have a distinctive aromatic palate and delicate texture. You’ve got to try them.

I love the way Nerello expresses the character of the volcano nudged into play by the local need for an everyday wine, which are anything but everyday.

Volià! A lovely little story of terroir.