Bergstom stake their claim to Pinot Noir.

Pinot is a finicky traveller. It does not readily stray from its Burgundian homeland. It’s not a happy sunbather, preferring more temperate climes. Winemakers the world round seek cooler niches where Pinot can be coaxed into showing its more elegant face. Too hot and it loses finesse and becomes lethargic and flabby. We like our Pinot to shake a leg.

Oregon is not a new place for Pinot Noir. Domaine Drouhin set up shop in Williamette Valley’s Dundee Hills back in late Eighties and it’s a safe-ish bet to tag along with a Burgundian sniffing new turf.

Domaine Drouhin

Williamette is the most northerly part of Oregon’s costal wine growing region. Get down to Columbia Valley the climate is altogether hotter, better suited to Cab and Syrah. The main difference between the 150 mile Williamette Valley and Burgundy is the summer, which is hotter and drier in Oregon, and this affects the ripening. The weather is heavily influenced by the Pacific Ocean, about 1 hour away. A 1600 foot coastal mountain range absorbs much of the rain, while on the other side of the valley, the taller Cascade Mountain form a barrier with desert beyond. The north part of the Willamette has the longest history of viticulture in Oregon.

When Jo and Vicki Stark decided to planted Pinot Noir on the steep & rocky slopes of the Chehalem Mountains at the principal crop grown in the area was a ‘hot’ onion. What became Colene Clemens vineyards was just pasture and scrub in 2005. Someone had attempted to make a quarry, but there was insufficient rock to be viable. This certainly says something about the soil. When winemaker Stephen Goff joined them in 2008 he recalls, “The rock content made it very challenging to develop a vineyard.”

Jo and Vicki planted Burgundy clones and Stephen makes the wine very much like a Burgundy – de-stemmed grapes have a 5 days cool soak, 21-25 days on skin with punching down. It’s pressed directly to barrel. Their pinots are not exactly terroir wines, as Stephen blend parcels to achieve a style, but they tend to use the same blocks in each vineyard. So not true terroir wines, but very nice indeed. (see tasting notes below). Stephen calls them “wines of intension.”

Anyone interested in Pinot Noir is likely to be a bit of a terroir geek. There are three soil types in Williamette Valley 1. shallow marine sediment 2. richer volcanic and 3. loess a sort of windblown silt. Colene have a bit of everything.

Stephen explains the volcanic soils give more red fruit and delicacy, while the sedimentary soils make darker with firmer tannins. He thought it would produce only robust wines, but found with this more delicate red fruit, he could blend.

“I am looking for mid palate and finish and drive. I like straight wines which increase in intensity. Certain blocks give this.” You can find this ‘drive’ in Colene Clemens Adriane Pinot Noir – see tasting notes below.

The 2013 vintage was warm. Stephen remarks,“2013 is approachable as it was warm from the start, yet not too hot, so the fruit is has cooler character, but the acidity is lower. Oregon is a middle ground between California and Burgundy. In a hotter vintage it is more like California and cooler more like Burgundy. The days typically reach 80 degrees, but the vineyards cool off at night as the temperature falls to 50 degrees.”

The 2014 is another warm vintage. I especially like the 2014s Pinots from Bergstom wines. (Josh Bergstom pruning below). With their Dundee Hills Pinot Noir we return to the birth place of Pinot. The volcanic soil produces a rather perfumed wine while the sedimentary soils of the Chehalem Mountains, which are high in silicon, give more muscle.

It seems that Pinot has found a happy home from home in Oregon, where it can feel fresh and energetic for the main part and when it does flag, it does not fall apart.

CWK Photography. Andrea Johnson and Bergstrom Wines above & pruning  photo.

Tasting Notes

*the nose knows best… where there is more than one wine mentioned at a winery, *denotes my favs.

Adelsheim Vineyard

Adelsheim Vineyard, Ribbon Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013
High elevation vineyard. It is rich and dark. Black fruit showing a bit of evolution to become slightly tarry. It is fresh, juicy and compact with quite grippy tannins.

Colene Clemens

Colene Clemens, Willamette Valley 2013
A very fruit driven wine. Soft and supple, sweet fruit, but not too rich. Fresh finish. Pleasing.

*Colene Clemens Margo Pinot Noir 2013
This is a blend of blocks. Redcurrant fruits on the nose and slightly floral. This is more linear than the wine above. Nicely firm with decent depth and intensity. Rather refined tannins. A lively red berry fruit finish.

*Colene Clemens Adriane Pinot Noir 2013
This has a lively, compact and intense aroma. Palate is rich and quite full and dense. More so than expected. Bigger tannins. This has some power and density and I like the grip.

Colene Clemens Victoria Pinot Noir 2013
This is a blend of three parcels. Rather sweet. It is a silky wine. Seductive fruit and I do like the ripping elegant texture. It is elegant, but for me, slightly too ripe. It moves into ripe strawberry flavours and is maybe a touch soft. However it does have a lovely fragrance.

Cristom Vineyards Marjorie 2013
Cristom vines are planted on volcanic soil made with 30-40% whole cluster. Marjorie Vineyard was one of my favourites. A little bit more austere on the nose. A sophisticated palate. Fine tannins, fresh and juicy. Good mid palate and plenty of fruit on the finish. This should age well.

Colene and Cristom are available from the Stannary Street Wine Co.

Domaine Roy & Fils

This is a new domaine. Pinot was planted in 2013 in Carton and Dundee Hills. The 2014 is made with bought in fruit and hence labelled Maison Roy.

Maison Roy et Fils, Petite Incline Pinot Noir 2013
A light and fruity wine with notes of strawberries and a hint of rhubarb. Light tannins and on the finish a hint of turkish delight.

*Maison Roy et Fils, Incline Pinot Noir 2013
A barrel selection. Really quite earthy, generous wine, full mid palate, soft tannins and forest floor on the finish.

Maison Roy et Fils Pinot Noir 2014
Full bodied with ripe blueberry fruit. There is a sweetness to the soft tannins and a balance of just enough acidity.

Website: domaineroy.com

Soter Vineyards

Soter Vineyards, Planet Oregon Pinot Noir 2015
Fresh and sappy Pinot with vibrant cherry fruit and a touch of cherry kernel. This is a juicy and fruity wine. Good value by Oregon standards at approx £22. (The Wine Treasury)