Géraldine Lochet is fun, talkative, buzzes with energy and makes jolly good wine. We met in a freezing cellar in Chassagne-Montrachet in 2009. She was the right hand woman of Philippe Colin for seven vintages. Each year in May we would taste the current vintage from barrel for The Burgundy Briefing vintage report.

A few months ago I received an email saying she was leaving her job, and later – ‘would I come and see her new venture in the Chalonnais?’ I assumed she’d been talent spotted by an angel investor who had swept her off to become a boutique negoce with functional high spec winery and classy fruit.

The sat nav took me to an unpretentious old house, just off the road from Givry to Buxy. It is surrounded by fields with a large parcel of old vines across the track which leads up-slope to the pretty village of Rosey. I pulled up beside the well as Géraldine emerged from an old cow byre, under conversion to become her winery. Over the flimsy fence the creamy Charolais cows were overseeing events.

This was no big buck venture, but a very personal adventure. Géraldine is going it alone on a budget. This is brave and much more interesting. As is often the case, the desire to make big changes can be triggered by emotional events. The previous year Geraldine lost close family and her sense of frustration escalated.

“I thought – if I am putting in this effort it should be for myself. Sooner or later you want to make wine for yourself. I have years of experience. I thought, this is the time to set up now.”

Géraldine had driven past the house en route to Chassagne for years. When the old lady died, she saw her chance. She’s in the process of renovating it with her partner who is a musician. He was on his way to a gig and seemed very chilled – the perfect foil for Géraldine.

She knows this area well. Her family moved around as her father was in the military, but settled in Buxy. Her mother is from a winemaking family in the village of Gamay – adjacent to Saint Aubin. When her grandparents died the land was worked by her mother’s brother, but vineyards were sold off when her uncle retired with no children to continue the work.

Géraldine grew up to study oenology, but with the family vines gone she worked for ten years at Château de Cary Potet in Buxy for Charles du Besset. “I am grateful to him for it was not easy as a young woman and he put his confidence in me.” The Chateau has 12 hectares in the AOC Montagny, which produces white wines. This is Géraldine’s stamping ground and it’s no surprise that this will be a key appellation for her.

She’s establishing herself as a negociant (someone who buy fruit or juice to makes wine or can simply buy wine). The 7 hectare vineyard next to house is classified as Bourgogne, regional land planted in old vine Aligoté and Chardonnay. There is some dispute over the land. It’s badly in need of a hair cut as it has not been pruned this year. Géraldine, who also teaches viticulture in Beaune, is itching to take it in hand and is hoping to buy it. But she also needs more illustrious appellations.

To get started with the 2015 vintage she bought a selection of finished wine. Tasting blind, she put together the collection below. For 2016, she bought Montagny, Premier Cru which she vinified in a friend’s winery in neighbouring Givry. In May I’ll go an taste it for the Burgundy Briefing. The 2017 vintage is her twentieth vintage, but her first alone as she aims to make it in her own cellar. She’s currently struggling with complex paperwork to set up her licence.

Géraldine knows the Montagny vineyards and has good connections to source the best quality so The English Nose is expecting a top notch Montagny. Montagny is a cooler location, with sunny slopes and some good soils. The premier cru are a little like Chablis, energetic, straight and mineral.

We tasted a premier cru Montagny she had made in 1997, her last vintage at Château de Cary Potet. When the owner died, his successors decided to rent out the vineyards. They made her 60 bottles labelled Cuveé Geraldine to thank her for her help. The bottle we tasted is from her personal cellar. Here’s hoping this is an indicator of what’s to come with the 2016 vintage.

Géraldine is contactable on [email protected]

Cuvée Geraldine, Montagny, 1er Cru Les Burnins 2007

The Premier cru, Burnins is a climat in the middle of Montagne. The clay gives the richness. The exposition is east facing. Bouquet of lemon and toast with a hint of mandarin on the palate. A surprisingly generous palate. Very fresh and nicely balanced. It is energetic and juicy with a salty tang on the finish…
Setting up shop: These are the wines she has in bottle to get the ball rolling. She is calling her negoce Geraldine Louise. Louise, after her mother. Her logo (above) is playful. It’s just out of sight on the side of the labels below. The silver dress is a play on ‘dressing’ the bottle. I like it. Who wants a boring old Burgundy label!

Geraldine Louise, Bourgogne, Aligoté, 2015

From the south of Buxy, as is the wine below. Fresh and lemony. Slightly stoney. This is ripe, juicy and has a good cut of acidity. Pithy, nicely bitter finish.

 

*Geraldine Louise, Bourgogne, Chardonnay, 2015

Fresh and breezy, ripe mandarin. Rounded and slightly creamy palate, but un-oaked. There is touch of honeysuckle and elderflower. Simple and charming.

 

Geraldine Louise, Bourgogne, Chardonnay Elegance, 2015

This has some oak ageing. It is lightly toasty and a little fuller in the mid palate. Slight bite on the finish. It is not integrated yet. I prefer the un-oaked wine above.

 

*Geraldine Louise, Givry, 2015

This has a slightly biscuity aroma. It is straight and lemony, but more robust. It has quite a muscular bite.

 

*Geraldine Louise, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, 2015

Up-toned red currant aroma. It is easy, fresh and fruity. The crunch and charm of Pinot Noir.