20/04/2017

English Nose in the Green

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Spring has sprung. Lambs are gamboling. Sap is rising in the vines and the English nose is at Domaine de La Pinte on a hillside outside Arbois in the Jura to taste the wines of a group of forty organic producers self-styled as Le Nez dans le Vert. In a land where fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides are still commonplace this group is taking a green stand.

The barn-like setting, straw bails, pony tails and denim gave the tasting a more granola feel than the nose is accustomed to. Professional tasters were invited on Monday, but I’d come on Sunday when the world, his wife and assorted kids had come for a day out, creating a party atmosphere. I took a deep breath and plunged into the 10am melee.

Each domaine was showing five wines on an up turned barrel, around which eager tasters were crowded. I was looking for a fresh contemporary style of wine which would express a sense of place – the warmer/cooler aspects of the rolling hills, the blue and grey clays, the limestone… in other words a terroir wine. The typical Jura approach gently oxidises the wine in barrel under a yeast veil… rather like sherry, but not in a solara system and not fortified. Don’t get me wrong, I like this traditional style on the right occasion, but it’s not so easy to taste terroir through a gentle haze of oxidation.

Many domaines were showing wines labelled as ouillé. These wines are ‘topped’ by extra wine to fill up the gap that occurs during barrel ageing as some wine evaporates – the so called angel’s share. It’s used by winemakers around the world to prevent their wines from oxidising, but here merits labelling, as it’s not normal practice. My agenda was to find the best of these and maybe dip into a bit of oxidation to finish. However it was quickly apparent that even those labelled as ouillé were somewhat oxidative. The key is in the frequency – or lack of it. Where the fastidious might top every couple of days, in the Jura it might be once a week or even a fortnight.

Elbows out to forge a path to the wine, I found some wine which had kept oxygen at bay. Styles ranged from the fresh and fruity to more serious, which reflected the terroir. The more calcareous (chalky) soils are a natural habitat of Chardonnay, while the local variety of Savagnin is happiest on a stamping ground of blue grey marl (marl is lime rich clay).

Savagnin grows on me. It has a thick skin which can give it a slightly tannic bite, great with food. It’s related to the ancient Traminer which dates to around AD 1000 in the South Tyrol. It mutated its way across the Alps and found its most explosive expression in Alsatian Gewurztraminer. I’m not especially fond of spicy varieties, but Savagnin has just a hint of spice and when nicely ripe has notes of greengage and lychee. When planted in marl it has body, density and should never lack acidity. I tasted some lovely wines in the style I was hunting for. I found mineral and fresh Chardonnays, and Savagnins with a bit more attitude and spice. Certain domaines stood out and there are tasting notes below.

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On a cart outside, grape skins were being distilled and visitors encouraged to taste a trickle of powerful marc (brandy) on lumps of sugars. Things were sure to become more high spirited. Families were soaking up the tasting with vast slices of tarte flambé and chocolate brownies. My friend and I decided to save our appetites for dinner at Le Bistronome, a restaurant in Arbois over looking the river.

Le Bistronome is a contemporary looking restaurant with traditionally brusque waiting staff. The owner was delightfully frosty, but warmed up as we filled up. Every course was interleaved with an amuse bouche. The most delicious was a light cheese soufflé affair topped with mushroom puree. We had white asparagus in a creamy sauce, baked with a gougères – rich, but scrumptious. Beef fillet, very rare, with Béarnaise and finished with local cheese. This is the Jura after all where the cow is to the Jurassienne as the sheep to a New Zealander. This was chased up chocolate mousse macaroon and raspberry sorbet. After coffee a forgotten plate of petit fours was briskly placed on the table. Really? “They are obligatory,” the waitress said sternly.

I’d come looking for something specific, but in the Jura, there’s something for everyone – sparking wine, traditional oxidised, topped and contemporary whites, light and floral reds (Trousseau), super charged Vin Jaune and the super sweet vin de paille. Just don’t bother if you like big red.

Domaine de La Borde

Julien Mareschal is making wines around the village of Pupillon. Terre de Lias 2015 is a Chardonnay on blue marl. It is floral and juicy with a fresh finish. I especially like the Foudre a Canon 2015, a Savagnin on blue marl, which has richness and depth, a touch of grip and a spicy, salty finish. The finish is finer and longer than the Chardonnay. Among my favourite wines of the tasting.

Domaine de la Renardière

I like the fact Jean-Michel Petit is making wines on different soil types. There is a very good young vine Chardonnay, Jurassique, 2015 on calcareous soils, being both quite full, fruity and mineral. Also an older vine Chardonnay on grey marl – Vianderies 2015 is a somewhat nutty, strong wine, quite rich and dense, in barrel and a bit heavier…maybe a touch more trad. Best by far is their Savignan, Les Terrasses – pure, tight, tense, with keen minerality on the finish. This is planted on grey marl.

 

Les Granges Paquenesses

Loreline Labourde has a Savagnin planted at rather a high altitude on silty/sandy and calcareous soils which needs to be harvested late. It is topped. Spicy, sappy and juicy. This had a good tannic grip. This is very good.
(I also like her oxidative, salty, breezy Chardonnay reminiscent of a manzanilla).

 

Domaine André et Mireille Tissot

Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot are making an excellent Chardonnay on limestone called Gravièrs (2015), which is straight and vibrant with a saline finish. They also have a Savagnin made in amphora and aged barrel which is powerful and structured.

 

Domaine Pignier

This is a very well known and large domaine with some good topped wine. Just for fun I mention their traditional flor Chardonnay maybe the best of this style I tasted for it was very fruity and fresh as well as oxidised. Plenty of body. Rounded, orangey and energetic.

 

Domaine Ratte

A fresh and fruity topped 2016 Chardonnay. Quite simple, but attractive.

 

The Nez dans le Vert holds an annual tasting in the spring. You can visit many of the domaines individually and buy from the cellar door. Some domaines also do tours in the summer months.